Nope! I have members who have found ways to follow along to classes on their treadmills, ellipticals, and rowers. Of course you won’t be able to do all of the movements and choreography without a spin bike, but you can try to follow along by increasing/decreasing resistance and speed as directed to in class. Some clients even take me along with them on their outdoor runs and walks (with their cameras off) for the motivating playlists, encouragement, coaching, and added accountability.

I recommend having water available and a towel on your handlebars. You can wear cycling shoes with clips, or sneakers with a stiff sole (tuck-in long shoe laces so that they don’t get tangled in the pedals). I recommend wearing leggings as opposed to short shorts which may creep up and cause a bunched-up feeling or chaffing. Avoid riding in baggy pants that could get caught up in the bike.

Nope — but I highly recommend them! Spin shoes are not required, however they do enhance your ride and help take your workout to the next level. They are much more comfortable and will provide you with a better ride and overall experience.

I have tried a few brands of spin shoes and the TIEM Slipstream Indoor Cycling shoe is by far my favorite. They are super comfortable and fit like a sneaker. They are also very cute and stylish which is a huge plus because most spin shoes are not. Click here for $5 off your purchase at TIEM. It’s not much, but it’s better than nothing.

Adjusting the bike to suit your body is a must prior to riding. Two main adjustments include the saddle and handlebars. Correct saddle and handlebar adjustments will improve maximum power output while maintaining proper posture, alignment, and cycling comfort.

Vertical Saddle Height:

1. Stand next to the saddle. Adjust the seat so that the upper edge of it is about 1-inch lower than your hip bone.

2. Sit on the bike with one foot on top of the pedal. Turn the pedal to where it is at 6 o’clock (or the bottom of the rotation). With the hips squared off towards the handlebars, the leg should be fully extended with a slight flexion of the knee. If the hip slants downwards to the side of the extended leg, lower the saddle one notch. If the hips lift away from the saddle, then raise the saddle one notch.

Vertical Handlebar Height:

Adjust the height of the handlebars to where they are the same height of the saddle. This should be the lowest point of the handlebars. Having the handlebars even with the seat will enable you to engage and work your core more as you ride. Raising the handlebars up higher is the best option for those who suffer from back pain. The positioning of your handlebars is really all about having them wherever is most comfortable for you while also taking into consideration your own skill level. Well trained cyclists with zero back problems can go lower. Beginners should elevate the handlebars one or a few notches above the saddle height. You may find that overtime you want to lower the handlebars as you get more comfortable and used to being in the cycle position on the bike.

Horizontal Saddle to Handlebar:

1. Position the elbow so that it is touching the tip of the saddle. Your fingertips should touch the middle of the handlebars where the two sides meet in the mid-point.

2. Sit on the bike and turn the pedals to 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock. The front kneecap should be vertically inline with the pedal axle or crank. If the knee is pushed forward too much, the adjust your saddle backwards.

Proper form on the bike is imperative for efficient cycling technique, effective workouts, and injury prevention. Here are some tips to ensure proper body positioning on the bike.

>>Keep knees pointing straight ahead when pedaling. Avoid opening knees out to the sides. If your knees point outwards, the saddle is too low.

>>Keep a light, relaxed grip in your hands. Your grip should not be tight.

>>Keep your shoulders and elbows relaxed. You should have a slight bend in your elbows to avoid locking out.

>>Hinge from the hips at approximately 45 degrees. Avoid hunching and rounding. Keep a long spine and the sensation of drawing your bellybutton back towards your spine.

>>Keep the hips stabilized and parallel to the floor when riding out of the saddle.

>>Roll back your shoulders and feel free to stretch your neck as often as needed during your ride.

>>Keep the center of gravity in the core & lower body.

>>Switch hand positions often, but at your own comfort level.

>>Faster and heavier is not always better. Never sacrifice form for increased speed or resistance.

>>Add resistance to reduce bouncing and “rattle in the saddle.”

>>Keep your core engaged at all times.

>>Avoid pedaling backwards. It’s bad for your bike.

>>Do not use underhand grips.

>>Keep your face relaxed. Turn the corners of your mouth upwards and smile.

Correct pedaling technique leads to efficient cycling. Most riders don’t think much about it, but pedaling requires different muscle contractions and relaxations that must be well timed and coordinated throughout the workout. The two main phases must be executed evenly and fluidly throughout the cycle. While one leg is pushing down the other leg is simultaneously pulling up. Be patient with yourself. The feeling of correct pedaling takes time and practice to master. Envision drawing a perfect circle with your feet as you pedal. Dig your heels down as you pedal downwards. On the upstroke of the rotation, dynamically pull the pedal upwards, as opposed to just following-through. My classes are rhythm based and driven by the beat of the music. The timing of your pedal stroke should always be in timing with the music. Follow my directions and watch my legs to try and coordinate your timing with my movement and the music.

There are a few things you can do to slow down. Try slowing your legs and/or adding resistance. If you ever need a hard stop, use the emergency brake. Every bike is a little different, but most bikes have a red resistance knob that if you press straight down on, it automatically brakes your legs to come to an immediate stop.

Yes! Correct breathing technique is vital during indoor cycling (as it is with many workout programs) due to the high demands of oxygen during intense aerobic training. While riding take deep inhalations through your nose and exhalations out your mouth. Begin by focusing on your breath from the very start of class during the warmup, concentrating on making it steady and controlled. Breathing should be diaphragmatic coming from the abdomen. If you have taken my classes before, then you know I give regular reminders to breathe deeply throughout the entire ride. Pay attention to your breath and eventually it will become a natural part of your workout.

Throughout class you will hear me refer to “Position One, Two, and Three.” These positions are in reference to where your hands should be placed on the handlebars throughout class. When in Hand Position One your hands should be in close together near the base of the handlebars. You will use this hand position while seated. When directed to Hand Position Two your hands should be placed out wide to the outermost edge of the base of the handlebars. We will use Position Two while both sitting and standing. Hand Position Three is reserved for times when we are standing up out of the saddle. Your hands should be wide and high, placed at the outer and uppermost position of the handlebars. We don’t typically place our hands at Three when in the saddle, but some experienced cyclists may ride that way.

Handlebar Grip Positions:

Regardless of whether we’re in Position One, Two, or Three, a light but firm grip is recommended. Grasping too tightly can cause a rise in blood pressure and discomfort in the forearms and wrists. Avoid putting all of your body weight into your hands.

Jumps involve lifting and lowering, up and down, from a seated to standing position in a rhythmic pattern. You will alternate between sitting and standing for a set number of counts as instructed and choreographed to the music. Hands may be in Positions One, Two, and/or Three during jumps. Jumps may be performed with light, medium, and/or heavy resistance.

This simulates riding uphill in a seated position. Increase the resistance and use the power of your legs for this movement. Use hand Positions One and Two for seated climbs.

This simulates riding uphill in a standing position. Increase the resistance and use the power of your legs and bodyweight to push down on the pedals. Use hand Positions Two and Three for standing climbs.

Yes! We use dumbbells from time to time on the bike for a set piece of arms. We will not use weights every class, but you are welcome to add them in on your own whenever you’d like. You will also see me riding with wrist weights sometimes which is another great option to invest in if you’re looking to do more work on your arms.

Since we go for high rep couts with no breaks during set pieces of arms, I recommend using light weights anywhere from 2 to 5 lb. I occasionally use 7.5 lb. dumbbells which are really the heaviest I’d recommend going while on the bike. Even the lightest weight is going to get heavy real quick when doing so many reps without putting our arms down for rest.

This is the million dollar question. There is no one easy answer that’s appropriate for everyone. If you are in the market for a bike and would like information to get you pointed in the right direction please check out my Bike Buying Guide blog post.

This is a tricky one to answer because we all have different bikes and therefore different levels of resistance. When I say “add a quarter,” it’s really just my way of communicating to add more tension. Try not to get too hung up on the terminology. On my bike, I can literally add a quarter, half, or full turn and still pedal fluidly. My bike seems to be able to add endless resistance. Other bikes are much more touchy and sensitive on the resistance, or may only be able to make one full rotation of the resistance knob before maxing out on tension. My best recommendation is to simply watch my legs and try to match your resistance based on my speed and rhythm. Do your best to match your rhythm and the timing of your pedal strokes with what you see me doing on your screen. That will be the best gauge to know how heavy or how light the road should be.

The life of the bike will be determined by how consistent maintenance is performed. Wiping down the bike at the end of each class will prevent rust and other forms of corrosion to build up.

Do not use abrasive or oil based cleaning liquids when wiping down the bike. At the end of each class it is recommended to release all the tension from the bike to allow perspiration to evaporate. You may want to raise all posts to the highest setting to expose this moisture.

You may want to take time once a month or so for more comprehensive maintenance if necessary. The parts that need the most attention are the brake pads, which might need to be lubricated if the resistance starts skipping or if you start hearing a grinding noise coming from the brake area of the spin bike. Dot a little bit of lubricant along the flywheel, which is where the breaks make contact, and then rotate the flywheel slowly. This is how the brake pads will absorb the oil without an issue and after that, you’ll be able to enjoy a smooth ride like before.